I've been in New York City exactly 2 months. That + the fact
that I visited here before on several occasions has led me to some “Yankee”
observations.
#1: People walk a lot
in NYC. I mean they walk A LOT. Yes, there are lots of cabs, some buses and the subway trains (the locals just call “trains”) often are full yet the
primary method of daily travel is walking. What I have noticed that the walking
here pretty much exactly matches driving in California. The road way (sidewalks)
are crowded most of the time, and some people go faster than others. The fast
walkers change lanes constantly in an effort to get around the “slowpokes”. You
give a quick glance over the left or right shoulder and then a quick move into
the next lane and step on it to clear. You have to signal intentions to avoid
head on collisions. Occasionally someone will come to a complete stop in front
of you and if you have kept a respectful distance between you and them you can
avoid a rear-ender. Some people are totally reckless or just don’t give a damn
and are all over the place, pushing the envelope and causing near accidents all
the time. You try to get away from them as soon as possible. I've been known to
take a sharp, sudden left or right turn at a corner just to get away from the
drunken walkers, the road rage walkers, the elderly weavers, or those that just
seem lost. Here walking should require a
road test and license. It’s uncanny the parallels between walking here and driving
in California.
#2 People are polite
but not real friendly in NYC. When you are out and about you can “glance”
at someone but you do NOT look at anyone. A longer look is
viewed as aggression. You may admire their outfit or hair style but don’t get
caught doing a double take or looking too long. People here stay to them
(selves) and you are expected to stay to yourself. Often on my daily walks, most people that pass me by do not look at me AT ALL. Most people here have
determined expressions on their faces looking straight ahead. They have
somewhere they want to be and they are only interested in getting there; they aren't “mall walking” and they aren't "people watching". Tourists ( lookie lous) are tolerated but not liked. I can’t avoid overhearing
phone conversations as I walk by (Manhattan people openly air their business)
and what I am mostly overhearing is contentiousness in the calls like: “Who gives a shit what he wants, I’m not interested in what he wants” “I didn't get the job
because that bitch told me I didn't have no social skills”. These are angry, argumentative, deal-making,
business driven, conversations. I NEVER hear: “tell Avery, grandma loves her”,
“I’m so proud of you”, or “I can’t wait to see you”. Usually someone is pissed
off or “working it”.
#3 Spanish is NOT the
language I hear the most other than English. You’d think so with the number
of Hispanics in this city. I do hear a lot of Spanish but what I hear the most
is Russian or Slavic/Baltic languages. You know the “stans”. (Afghanistan,
Uzbekistan, Iownastan etc.). That really surprised me. My building “super” is named Braho
and he’s barely understandable. Patrick is the owner’s (of the building)
representative and his Irish brogue is thicker than an Irish potato. He was the
one that told me when I moved in that I could: “ga doun ta Toid avenue and
sixty toid street n buoy yerself a hater, thot weigh ya won’t gat sa culd at
naight”. This is a linguists paradise that’s for sure.
#4 Manhattan is many
places, literally. Saying you live in Manhattan is like a person saying
they live in San Diego. Rancho Bernardo is “San Diego” but so are Imperial
Beach, Encinitas, Rancho Santa Fe, and Lakeside. Yet all these places are
distinctly different. It’s the same with
Manhattan. Here are some areas:
Yorkville: This
is where my son and his girlfriend and I live. It’s the Upper East Side between
70-85 streets and at the Far East end by York Avenue. Middle class and upper
middle class live there. This is your Carlsbad type place.
Upper West Side: This
is the wealthy and distinctly upper middle class. These are older people,
rich and they have elevator buildings, doormen and Central Park or Hudson River
views. This is the La Jolla part of New York)
East Village and
Greenwich Village: Lower east side of Manhattan, from say Canal Street up
to 34th street. Bohemian artiste and trend setters live here. Lots
of young people live here because it’s a “happening” place. There are lots of
parties, night clubs, comedy stores, bars, art boutiques and so forth. It’s
pretty costly to live here so lots of smaller studios or people partner up to
afford it. On a Friday night in summer the streets are packed at 2 am. Think of
a merger of Hillcrest and Ocean Beach.
Mid-Town: This is
from around 34th street up to 60th street in the center
of Manhattan. This is your tourist locale. The Empire State Building, Macy’s,
Broadway shows on 42nd street, Grand Central, Bloomingdales,
Christie’s auction house, Madison Square Garden, Times Square are found here.
More businesses than living spaces but the living spaces are pricey because you
would be in a nice building high up. This is the Las Vegas Strip equivalent.
Other places like: Soho,
Sutton, Murray Hill, Turtle Bay, Chelsea, Tribeca, Nolita and my person favorite Dumbo. Dumbo is found way down south near the
Brooklyn Bridge and encompasses several blocks between the Brooklyn and
Manhattan Bridges. Why is this middle to lower middle class region called
Dumbo? Because it stands for: “Down Under the Manhattan and Brooklyn Overpass”.
Another Thing: Be thankful for your
Ralph’s, Albertson’s and Vons. There aren't any here and the grocery stores here
are half their size, lack many options and are expensive. You can eat at home
but you don’t get that many choices.
HOWEVER, there so
many more places to go get something to eat.
My god the number of restaurants, bodega carts, deli’s, bagel shops, and
diners is endless. I could find a new place to eat almost every day. The
hardest part is finding your favorites. The food is excellent at almost every
place. The prices are high but you pick and choose wisely. They serve huge
portions here. I think it’s because so many people walk and burn a lot of
calories. I average 3+ miles every day. People burn calories here, they really
do. I am not kidding when I say 8.5 people out of every 10 you see walking the
streets are very fit.
#5 Iconography: There is a reason so many movies and TV shows are filmed
in Manhattan. It’s one scenic, iconic location after another. It’s not just the
famous places like Trump Tower, Rockefeller Center, Lincoln Center, Chinatown,
World Trade Center, Central Park, and St. Patrick’s Cathedral. NO, there are
classic diners like Neil’s Coffee Shop, Green Kitchen, and some beautiful
churches like The Church of the Heavenly Rest. It’s Jackie Onassis Reservoir,
Strawberry Fields, Strand Bookstore, Flat Iron Building, the East River
Walkway, and I could make a list of a hundred more. There are poetry & book readings,
more Broadway and off Broadway plays than a person could ever attend and shops
and boutiques along Park and Madison Avenue, and at least 10 interesting and
famous museums. You can never tire of the things to do here. This place
literally has something going on all the time. As Sinatra crooned, “it’s the
city that never sleeps”. And one more thing, it has the most famous sports team in American history the New York Yankees.
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